the Caribbean islands, and in particular the Lesser Antilles - the Caribbean because the term identifies a large area with very different axes and often conflicting - are the dream of many sailors in our own yearning to these places as a "tropical paradise", constantly caressed by a gentle trade wind, which cools islands fringed by white beaches and softly sing the "Cocotiers" that the shade.
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| Carriacou, Tirrely Bay, one of the few still natural |
exotic A whole literature has accustomed us to imagine these places as places in which life can flow easy, quiet and cheap, plentiful fishing trips, the limit of simple barter trade, the discovery of little known corners, and still unspoilt nature, idyllic relations with the young mulatto who will propose to its board as a lobster fraction of the cost or why not, some easy beauty adventure with breathtaking color chocolate.
All this, if it ever existed, is part of a distant past and survived just that, in the hopes and dreams.
Of undoubted natural beauty of these places if they have been noticed in many, and not only for sailing enthusiasts, but also and above all wise "Operetor Tour," and the shipping company of the large cruise ships carrying disenchanted thousands of tourists in the "tropical paradise".
European sailor's lucky that he will fulfill his dream, making the Atlantic crossing in the direction of the Lesser Antilles, with the boat or on one of many that "chartered" the year this passage: soon discover that the Aliseo, named so evocative and gentle, is actually a very subtle and capricious wind: at first persistently deny playing hide and seek with the sailor who will go and find at times more south and others much further west than the literature had taught him.
arrived in the vicinity of the much-desired goal, we will taste it soon moods blacks that will occur with "grain" (rump), accompanied by furious winds and rain showers from diluvianti, they first will be graciously accepted but in the long run ....
After the magical land to the "promised land", we believe this is the beautiful island of Martinique, bordeggerà along the coast distinguishing green with increasing precision the boundaries and savoring his nostrils filled with the warm and exotic scents emanating from the damp earth and the lush vegetation.
Our sailor who has deftly avoided the many ill-marked pots, lobster fishermen, and then make his triumphant entry into the "Grand cul de sac du Marin" (loosely translated into the large enclosed bay of the Mariner ), here you will be faced with an immense body of water protected from all sides, but hardly see the water between one or the other of the many boats at anchor.
Almost impossible then think of finding a convenient place on the dock in one of two Marine present, to take a deserved rest from the fatigue of the just completed. The seats will be occupied almost all the boats of different companies "charter" or from those of the more fortunate or provident will be reserved for that time, even if he found a hole that fit the stern of his boat quickly discovered that ask € the same, so many, he was used in the sea at home.
It will not be the case with so little to lose heart, we will continue then her cruise south to reach the pearls of the Lesser Antilles, much courted the Grenadines, where he is deeply convinced, will find the conditions that finally he had always dreamed of.
if you're lucky, that will be so generous if the trade winds to blow from the northeast, south veleggerà fun than ever to cross the channel at high speed. However, if the trade winds will blow from naughty and Southeast, will go upwind like crazy, even to fight the current that leads to the west, but this is all part of the game and will still be happy.
Descending along the islands probably will stop at Marigot Bay also because it will not just miss it, a beautiful red buoy that says the name of the bay in large white letters will indicate unequivocally the entry if he could never find it alone!
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| The entrance buoy "Marigot Bay" in St. Lucie |
probably already in close to the mark will be reached by a fast canoe, carrying some nice folks who speak an approximate Italian will offer to take a beacon. We enjoyed talking and flattered by the curious from having been immediately recognized as appartenetene the famous people of "saints, poets and navigators " contratterà the mark for a price very high, because he did not see any other place where to stop so the input channel to the "Marigot" proper was crowded with boats of every type and size.
Securely moored to buoy then buy the nice mooring, various hats of woven palm leaves, necklaces of fake shark teeth and other amenities of this type, the mooring shoddy after having sold as many as possible in exchange for real money - the exact opposite of what was happening in the first Conquistadores that yielded glass beads for real gold nuggets - and received the price of the buoy, went away with great greetings, hold no receipt.
Sin which later will come a speedboat with "Ranger" in impeccable uniform, behind a receipt will make him pay a second time the mark!
And so forth, from pearl to pearl, to be overcrowded bay bay completely full, with boa boa in more and more expensive, high taxes from customs to customs heavy tax, up to the peak the "tropical paradise" decantatissimi the "Tobago Kays.
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| the "Tobago Keys" |
arrived here after a heart attack between the input from coral reefs, will be in a large and lovely atoll, and seeing that you can choose from the many buoys or give his yet, but strictly on the side of one of the many boats, because space is limited and you have to adapt, of course tired of paying for the moorings will be resolved yet, but will not yet already completed the maneuver by his side will be the boat of the Guardia Park, the usual step of dollars and official receipt.
Once the Tobago could be what you wanted, but there was no possibility of supplies, if not buy some lobsters from local fishermen, now our will that it will remain there for more than three days, compensation may have all supplies they want, including the daily newspaper and croissants every morning, of course, paying a large sum to the "boat boy" who are constantly back and forth, fast on their canoes, not far from Tobago to the "Union Iland.
The reality unfortunately is that the Lesser Antilles has become a destination for cruise too easy and too much exploited, is in fact very easy to rent a boat on site and run around the islands just as you would from those of the more our Aegean . Many then after bringing the boat up to them (or made to bring essersela ...), will remain there for several years, leaving during the hurricane season in one of safe places that are located in the southernmost part of the archipelago.
The result is that all the islands are more crowded with cruise passengers, or often less experienced boaters are rare and it is also difficult idistinguerli, all mingle in the mass and individuality is lost, the meetings are one of the most beautiful things of the sea voyage, quite rare, you can stay for days at the side of another boat by exchanging at most a casual nod.
The "Resort" and the luxury cruise of the great vessels have also strongly contributed to rising prices and created services more and more exclusive.
The Grenadines looks more and more like a big holiday resort where you need to move with your credit card ready.
Louis Ottogalli
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